A few more novel peptides…
In the previous blog we discussed a peptide which interferes with the stimulation of muscle contractions, a neurological process. It is also important to know that there are many neurological connections to cells and layers in the skin. Neuropeptides are cell mediators released from nerve cells, skin cells, and immune cells mediate inflammation in the skin. The equilibrium of these mediators can be disrupted by environmental factors such as UV exposure which can lead to skin hypersensitivity or premature skin aging.
Neutrazen™ is a tri-peptide which modulates skin inflammation, and is linked to a lipid in order to penetrate the skin. It has been shown to reduce the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, peptides that stimulate the inflammatory process, normally produced after UV exposure. The reduction of these cytokines helps prevent chronic inflammation from causing damage to the skin.
A key component of the inflammatory response is the effect that mediators have on the vascular system in the skin. With many pro-inflammatory cytokines present, capillaries dilate which causes redness and swelling. Neutrazen™ has been shown to have an effect on the skin’s vascular system, diminishing the redness and swelling that occurs during inflammation. This active provides soothing relief for those who suffer from inflamed, sensitive skin, and will help prevent the resultant damage from chronic inflammation.
UV-induced melanin production was also briefly discussed in the previous blog. The expression of the protein MITF (microphtalmia-associated transcription factor) is responsible for constitutive production of melanin, meaning production not induced by external factors like the sun. However, MITF is inhibited by the activation of the TGF-β receptor (transforming growth factor). If the TGF-β receptor is activated the activity of tyrosinase and subsequent melanin production is inhibited.
β-White™ is a TGF-β biomimetic peptide which produces optimal whitening effects. The peptide is able to bind and activate the TGF-β receptor, leading to inhibition of the downstream MITF melanin production. Skin lightening effects were noted in as little as two weeks, and the complexion appeared more uniform and brighter. This peptide provides a great alternative to traditional lightening agents, which although they are efficacious, can cause skin irritations and sensitivities.
The two actives mentioned above are great examples of how research in skin physiology, and biotechnological advancements have led to the development of efficacious cosmetic ingredients.
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Skin Management System by Dr. Strauss
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