When considering active ingredients it is important to consider how your skin will absorb them in order for them to take effect. Skin penetration is therefore one of the most important aspects of a topical skin care product. If the ingredient needs to make its effect in the deeper layers of the skin, deeper penetration is required. However, if the ingredient only acts in the outer layers, deep penetration is not necessary.
As an example, we are going to consider the difference between HyaCare® and HyaCare® 50 to explore the topic of skin penetration. Both ingredients are biosynthetic forms of hyaluronic acid, a glycosaminoglycan which plays an important role in hydrating tissue as it holds 70% more water than any other substance.
HyaCare®, sodium hyaluronate, was developed first and has an average molecular weight between 550-1000kDa. After a single application it was found that trans-epithelial water loss improved, showing that the skin could better retain moisture.
HyaCare®50, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, was developed after HyaCare® and has an average molecular weight of 50kDa. This is a very drastic change from the hyaluronic acid normally found in the skin which is between 600-1000kDa. It was found with this extremely low molecular weight version, skin penetration increased significantly compared to the high molecular weight hyaluronic acids. This ingredient showed a greater ability to reduce the appearance of deep wrinkles and skin roughness in comparison.
Although it seems that the deeply penetrating HyaCare®50 would be the better option, it is still useful to use HyaCare® as it will provide visible effects at the surface, even with one use. With both combined, optimal hydration is achieved at the surface, and also in deeper skin layers.
This demonstrates how advanced technology can help us in optimizing the effects of cosmetic ingredients. By adjusting the molecular weight of the compound, the active made its effect deeper in the skin. In order for an ingredient to have its effect, it must reach the proper location. Biotechnology has allowed us to manipulate peptides and other compounds to achieve greater skin penetration, so that active ingredients can take action in deeper layers.
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Skin Management System by Dr. Strauss
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