In the previous blog we discussed the importance of molecular weight when considering skin penetration of active ingredients. But there are other delivery systems that help actives reach deeper into the skin.
The very outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, acts as the skins barrier. This layer contains peptides, lipids, enzymes and acids which act as a chemical barrier in addition to the physical barrier of the tightly knit keratinocytes (skin cells). The melanocytes, skin stem cells, and nerve cells are found in the bottom of the epidermis. Beneath this is dermis where fibroblasts, collagen and elastin is found. If an active ingredient needs to act at specific layer or cells it is essential that there is an effective delivery system in place.
Rovisome®Retinol Moist uses a phospholipid vesicle system to allow greater penetration into the skin. Phospholipids are lipophilic (water hating) and form spherical vesicles to avoid contact with hydrophilic (water loving) particles. By incorporating active ingredients into these vesicles, it provides stability to compounds, only being released once reaching other lipophilic surfaces, such as the surface of cells. Because retinol on its own is not stable, this carrier system ensures stability of retinol until it reaches the skin cells. It also reduces the irritation which often occurs with retinol use. This innovative delivery system provides stability to ingredients, and ensures penetration to skin cells beneath the upper layers of the epidermis.
Delentigo™ is an active ingredient which reduces the appearance of age spots and hyperpigmentation. It is composed of a swiss cress extract and a soy isoflavone, Genistein. Both are incorporated into separate liposomes, similar to the vesicle explained above. Having the two components in separate liposomes ensures their stability until they reach the skin. And as explained in regards to Rovisome® Retinol Moist, the encapsulation assists in delivering the ingredient beneath the stratum corneum of the epidermis to deeper skin layers. Because Delentigo™ acts on the process of skin pigmentation, it needs to reach deep into the epidermis where melanocytes exist in order for its effects to take place.
Advanced delivery systems have greatly optimized the efficacy of cosmetic skin care products. Technology has provided us with innovative ways for ingredients to penetrate the skin, and allowed us to target deeper skin layers.
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Skin Management System by Dr. Strauss
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